Category Archives: CL HISTORY SPOTLIGHT

CL HISTORY SPOTLIGHT: ZELDA WYNN VALDES

Fashion legend ZELDA WYNN VALDES (1905 – 2001) was the first black designer and costumer to open her own shop, which was the first black-owned business on Broadway in 1948. Her sexy, hip-hugging designs have been worn by many popular, world famous entertainers such as recent CL History Spotlight Joyce Bryant, Marian Anderson, Josephine Baker, Ella Fitzgerald, Dorothy Dandridge, Mae West, Ruby Dee, Eartha Kitt and Sarah Vaughan, among many others.

Born Zelda Wynn in 1905, she got her start in fashion creating outfits for her dolls as a child in Chambersburg, Pa., and began cutting out patterns from newspaper. She studied her grandmother’s work as a seamstress & also worked in her uncle’s tailoring shop. She offered to create a dress for her grandmother, who said she couldn’t because she was too tall & too big. Zelda did it anyway, and her grandmother loved it so much that she was buried in it.

Accentuating the female form, her work speaks for itself and often contained a mermaid quality starting off tight and fitting at the top and flaring with dramatic ruffles at the bottom.

“I just had a God-given talent for making people beautiful,” she told a New York Times reporter later in her career.

But it wasn’t a pleasant time when she landed her first job at a fancy clothier, she recalled in the same article. Some of the clients doubted her abilities as a young black woman, but Zelda was determined to show them what she could do. Over time, many had seen what she could do and wanted her to do the same for them. She opened her shop on Broadway and West 158th Street with her sister, Mary Barbour, who worked as her assistant while also supervising the staff.

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CL HISTORY SPOTLIGHT: ASHLEY BRYAN

ASHLEY BRYAN, born July 3, 1923, to Antiguan immigrants in Harlem, New York, was the first African American to publish a children’s book as both its author and illustrator in 1962. He created his first book in kindergarten as an assignment to make a drawing for each letter of the alphabet. Since then, he’s authored or illustrated over 35 children’s book and earned several awards including the Coretta Scott King Award multiple times, which recognizes outstanding African American authors and illustrators.

Bryan grew up with his two brothers, two sisters and three orphaned cousins in the Bronx, and his parents ensured a strong sense of pride within their family. Growing up during the Great Depression, he says his childhood was filled with books, music and art, although resources were scarce (“The public library was like a second home.”) His mother sang while his father played the piano, and he can’t remember a time when he wasn’t drawing or painting. The alphabet book, which Bryan authored, illustrated and bound himself, received much praise from his teachers, family and friends, prompting him to continue creating these “limited editions” as gifts for loved ones.

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CL HISTORY SPOTLIGHT: FLORENCE MILLS

Before there was your favorite female entertainer, there was “FLORENCE MILLS” WINFREY (1896-1927), the first black international female superstar of the 20th century. But you’ve probably never heard of her because the recording techniques used in the early 1900s couldn’t capture her voice, and she was never filmed, so there are no recorded performances of her.

Born to former slave parents in the Washington D.C. slum of Goat Alley on Jan. 25, 1896, Florence Winfrey won a talent contest at 4-years-old for Buck and Wing dancing. While entertaining at a diplomatic function that same year, she received a gold bracelet from the British ambassador’s wife.Three years later she made her professional debut as a guest star on The Sons of Ham with vaudeville entertainers George Walker and Bert Williams, who was the first black person to have a lead role on the Broadway stage.

The following year, Florence joined a white vaudeville touring company and moved to New York with her mother and older sisters, Olivia and Maude, settling in Harlem, where she and her sisters established a traveling song and dance act known as the Mills Sisters. They performed in most black theaters in New York and even toured across much of the South until Maude married and Olivia retired. Florence then formed the Panama Trio singing group with Ada “Bricktop” Smith and Cora Green, but within a year the trio had disbanded after a shooting scandal closed the Panama Cafe where they had often performed.

Florence then joined The Tennessee Ten, a successful black traveling show, where she met dancing director Ulysses “Slow Kid” Thompson, who was a well-known acrobatic, tap and “rubberlegs” dancer. The couple married in 1921, the same year Florence was offered the lead role in Shuffle Along, which was written by Eubie Blake and became the first hit Broadway musical written by and about African-Americans. The musical is also considered an impetus to the Harlem Renaissance.

Florence became an overnight sensation, garnering one of the first black female fashion spreads in Vogue and Vanity Fair. There were Florence Mills dolls, and anything she did sartorially became the latest fashion trend. She also had her own silk stockings simply known as the Florence Mills shade. In 1924, Florence starred in Dixie to Broadway, which became another hit and offered her rendition of “I’m a Little Blackbird Looking for a Bluebird”, which became her signature tune, earning her the nickname Blackbird. Continue

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CL HISTORY SPOTLIGHT: JOYCE BRYANT

Born in Oakland but raised in San Francisco, JOYCE BRYANT was the oldest of eight children. Her father was a railroad chef, while her mother was a devout Seventh-day Adventist. “The Bronze Blond Bombshell”, which she came to be known, was a four octave singer often referred to as the “black Marilyn Monroe.”

Following a failed marriage that wasn’t consummated at the age of 14 and a move to LA in her late teens, Bryant first performed in public in the late 1940s. She soon began recording for Okeh Records, and her first recording, “Drunk with Love”, was immediately banned on radio as too suggestive for airplay. “Love for Sale” (see below) was also banned.

Named one of the most beautiful black women in the world, Bryant regularly appeared in Jet. She earned $3,500 per gig (about $31,200.00 by today’s standards), making approximately $250,000 ($2.23M) annually on the nightclub scene in the early 1950s. She was the ultimate showstopper with her stunning beauty, hourglass figure and provocative outfits. Her backless, cleavage-revealing mermaid dresses were so tight that she had to be carried off-stage. In addition, Bryant supposedly twisted so much that she lost four pounds per performance.

It wasn’t until she was set to share the stage with Josephine Baker at an Easter benefit concert that she developed her signature. Not wanting to be upstaged, Bryant doused her hair with silver radiator paint, draped a floor length silver mink coat over a skintight silver gown, painted her nails silver and was met with “wild applause” from the audience. She had to wash the paint out with paint thinner but chose to keep her hair tinted silver, which ultimately badly damaged it.

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